<%namespace name="tools" file="tools.tex"/>
<%! import os %>


\textbf{Experiment description}\newline
\cite{Buckley2015} performed experiments with irregular waves in the physical wave flume at Deltares (Eastern Scheldt flume). The flume has a length of 55 meters, a width of 1.0 m and a height of 1.2 m. The reef profile was constructed from marine plywood and had a 1:5 reef slope, a 14-m horizontal reef flat, and a 1:12 beach (\autoref{fig:Buckley_setup}). Based on the 1:36 geometric scaling assumed in this study, this represents a 500-m-long reef flat in field (prototype) scale. Waves were generated with a piston-type wave maker with second-order wave generation and active reflection compensation of any seaward-propagating waves reflected back to the wave maker from the reef slope and beach. Irregular waves were generated with a TMA-type spectrum. A total of 16 runs were conducted with varying still water depths on the reef flat $h_{0,r}$ and offshore wave conditions. From these 16 runs, 4 runs are considered in this document (\autoref{tab:buckley_tests}). Water levels were measured using resistance wave gauges sampling synchronously at 40 Hz at 17 locations, with the highest density of measurements in the surfzone region near the reef crest at x = 0 m  (\autoref{fig:Buckley_setup}). Horizontal velocities were also measured synchronously at 40 Hz using programmable electromagnetic current sensors (P-EMS, Deltares) at six locations collocated with wave gauges  (\autoref{fig:Buckley_setup}).

${tools.image('Buckley/', 'test_setup.jpg', 'Schematic of the fringing reef showing the reef slope (1:5), reef flat length (14 m; ~500-m field scale), beach slope (1:12), and instrument locations. Directional measurement sites have collocated water level and velocity measurements, whereas other nondirectional sites have only water level measurements. (b) An example of the wave setup profile in the vicinity of the reef crest, defining the still water depth h0 and the total water depth.',label='Buckley_setup')}

\begin{table}[h]
\centering
\begin{tabular}{llll}\hline \hline
Test & $H_{rms,0}$ (m) & $T_{p}$ (s) & $h_{0,r}$ (m) \\ \hline \hline
1   & 0.03            & 2.26        & 0.04          \\ \hline
2   & 0.06            & 2.26        & 0.04          \\ \hline
9   & 0.06            & 2.26        & 0.00          \\ \hline
12  & 0.06            & 2.26        & 0.09          \\ \hline
\end{tabular}
\caption{Specifics for considered test within XBeach testbed}
\label{tab:buckley_tests}
\end{table}



\textbf{Results}\newline		
The comparison between the model and the observations for the wave height transformation of the short waves, the infragravity waves, the setup, spectral period, mean period, skewness and asymmetry is shown in \autoref{fig:Buckley_sim1},  \autoref{fig:Buckley_sim2},  \autoref{fig:Buckley_sim9} and  \autoref{fig:Buckley_sim12}. An overview of the statistical scores is given in \autoref{tab:Buckley_nh}.


${tools.image('Buckley/sim1/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 1. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).', label='Buckley_sim1')}

${tools.image('Buckley/sim2/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 2. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).', label='Buckley_sim2')}

${tools.image('Buckley/sim9/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 9. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).', label='Buckley_sim9')}

${tools.image('Buckley/sim12/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 12. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).', label='Buckley_sim12')}

${tools.table('Buckley/', 'skill.tex', 'Statistical scores for Buckley experiments', 'Buckley_nh')} 
