<%namespace name="tools" file="tools.tex"/>
<%! import os %>


\textbf{Experiment description}\newline
\citet{Boers1996} performed experiments with irregular waves in the physical wave flume at Delft University of Technology. The flume has a length of 40 meters and a width of 0.8 m. The fixed concrete beach profile represents the beach profile of the LIP 11D-experiment 1B (excluding mega-ripples), on a scale of 1:28 with respect to prototype. This profile has a breaker bar and a surf zone trough. The still water level during the experiments is z = 0.75 m above the bottom of the wave flume. The flume is equipped with a hydraulically driven, piston type wave generator with second-order wave generation and Active Reflection Compensation. Measurements were taken at 20 Hz. Three irregular wave conditions were studied (See Table \ref{tab:boers_conditions}). The surface elevation was measured at 70 locations shown in \autoref{fig:gaugeloc}. It is important to note that the waves are breaking from the start in Tests 1A and 1B. In addition, not a complete jonswap spectrum could be imposed at the boundary due to restrictions with the waveboard. Therefore, the XBeach model is forced with measured timeseries, rather than with a jonswap spectrum.

${tools.image(os.path.join(data_path, 'Boers'), 'gaugeloc.png', 'Locations of surface eleveation measurements')}

\begin{table}[h]
\centering
	\begin{tabular}{ c  c c } \hline \hline
		Test & $H_{m0} [$m$]$ & $T_{p}$ [s] \\ \hline \hline
		1A & 0.157 & 2.1 \\ \hline
		1B & 0.206 & 2.1 \\  \hline
		1C & 0.103 & 3.4  \\  \hline
	\end{tabular}
\caption{The \citet{Boers1996} wave conditions.}
\label{tab:boers_conditions}
\end{table}


\textbf{Results}\newline		
The comparison between the model and the observations for the wave height transformation of the short waves, the infragravity waves, the setup, spectral period, mean period, skewness and asymmetry is shown in \autoref{fig:Boers1A_nh}, \autoref{fig:Boers1B_nh} and \autoref{fig:Boers1C_nh}. An overview of the statistical scores is given in \autoref{tab:Boers_nh}.


${tools.image('Boers_nh/1A_nh/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 1A. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).' ,label='Boers1A_nh')}

${tools.image('Boers_nh/1B_nh/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 1B. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).',label='Boers1B_nh')}

${tools.image('Boers_nh/1C_nh/', 'hydro.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during test 1C. The top-left panel shows the model set-up. The other plots show the performance of XBeach (red) compared to the observations during the experiments (blue).',label='Boers1C_nh')}

${tools.table('Boers_nh/', 'skill.tex', 'Statistical scores for Boers experiments', 'Boers_nh')} 