<%namespace name="tools" file="tools.tex"/>
<%! import os %>


\textbf{Experiment description}\newline
\citet{Boers1996} performed experiments with irregular waves in the physical wave flume at Delft University of Technology. The flume has a length of 40 meters and a width of 0.8 m. The fixed concrete beach profile represents the beach profile of the LIP 11D-experiment 1B (excluding mega-ripples), on a scale of 1:28 with respect to prototype. This profile has a breaker bar and a surf zone trough. The still water level during the experiments is z = 0.75 m above the bottom of the wave flume. The flume is equipped with a hydraulically driven, piston type wave generator with second-order wave generation and Active Reflection Compensation. Measurements were taken at 20 Hz. Three irregular wave conditions were studied (See Table \ref{tab:boers_conditions}). The surface elevation was measured at 70 locations shown in \autoref{fig:gaugeloc}. It is important to note that the waves are breaking from the start in Tests 1A and 1B. In addition, not a complete jonswap spectrum could be imposed at the boundary due to restrictions with the waveboard. Therefore, the XBeach model is forced with measured timeseries, rather than with a jonswap spectrum.

${tools.image(os.path.join(data_path, 'Boers'), 'gaugeloc.png', 'Locations of surface eleveation measurements')}

\begin{table}[h]
\centering
	\begin{tabular}{ c  c c } \hline \hline
		Test & $H_{m0} [$m$]$ & $T_{p}$ [s] \\ \hline \hline
		1A & 0.157 & 2.1 \\ \hline
		1B & 0.206 & 2.1 \\  \hline
		1C & 0.103 & 3.4  \\  \hline
	\end{tabular}
\caption{The \citet{Boers1996} wave conditions.}
\label{tab:boers_conditions}
\end{table}


\textbf{Results}\newline		
The comparison between the model and the observations for the wave height transformation of the short waves, the infragravity waves and the setup is shown in \autoref{fig:Boers1A}, \autoref{fig:Boers1B} and \autoref{fig:Boers1C}.  The short-wave height and infragravity wave height are shown in the upper panel. The setup is shown in the second panel and the bathymetry is shown in the last panel. The XBeach boundary is located at the 9th wave gauge since this location contains velocity and surface elevation measurements and the model is forced with the incoming measured wave signal. Note that the setup for these small-scale tests is very small (maximum of several millimetres), which causes the scatter in the observations.





${tools.image('Boers/', 'overview1A.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during experiment 1A. The observed short-wave height (dots) and observed infragravity wave height (triangles) are compared to the XBeach results (blue and red line) in the upper panel. The observed setup (dots) is compared to the setup computed with XBeach (blue line) in the second panel and the bathymetry is shown in the third panel.',label='Boers1A')}

${tools.image('Boers/', 'overview1B.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during experiment 1B. The observed short-wave height (dots) and observed infragravity wave height (triangles) are compared to the XBeach results (blue and red line) in the upper panel. The observed setup (dots) is compared to the setup computed with XBeach (blue line) in the second panel and the bathymetry is shown in the third panel.',label='Boers1B')}

${tools.image('Boers/', 'overview1C.png', 'Wave hydrodynamics during experiment 1C. The observed short-wave height (dots) and observed infragravity wave height (triangles) are compared to the XBeach results (blue and red line) in the upper panel. The observed setup (dots) is compared to the setup computed with XBeach (blue line) in the second panel and the bathymetry is shown in the third panel.',label='Boers1C')}

% if interpret:

The model performs reasonably well against the data for this well-measured but complex case. The high-frequency wave transformation compares well with the measurements, except for small offsets around the breakpoint. The steady water level setup is well-predicted, except in the trough region (x=21-25 m). The low-frequency wave height is slightly overpredicted in the shoaling zone (up to the breakpoint) and stays too large after that.

% endif


\textbf{Overview}\newline
An overview of the skill scores is shown in \autoref{fig:Boers_overview} and \autoref{tab:boers_overview}, where the relative bias and scatter index of the short-wave height, infragravity-wave height and setup are shown for the different Boers experiments.

${tools.image('Boers/', 'overview.png', 'Overview of the statistical scores of the Boers experiments. The relative error and scatter index for the short-wave height (upper panel), infragravity wave height (second panel) and setup (third panel) are shown for the different Boers experiments.',label='Boers_overview')}


${tools.table('Boers/', 'skill.tex', 'Statistical scores for Boers experiments', 'boers_overview')} 